Surfing Can Relax One’s Mind, Soul and Body

Surfing Can Relax One’s Mind, Soul and Body

I believe surfing can relax one’s mind, soul and body. Imagine a 100-degree day at a beach on the west coast, you leap into the cool uplifting water, then all of a sudden you feel weightless. Your stress is relieved, your body cleansed, the mind relaxed; YOU’RE FREE. When I surf, I surf for the excitement and the feeling of being free. It sets me free in the sense of releasing me from my everyday worries; breathing in the cool fresh air, surfing in the bright blue ocean and doing just about anything that your mind, soul and body is capable of.

There have been many life-changing moments that I have encountered through surfing. One of my most treasured moments was when I riding a wave just about the size of a story high building, when all of a sudden I saw two fins pop up near me. At first I was frightened, I thought it was two sharks about to come attack me, leaving me to die just like another fish in the sea. As the fins got closer, I realized that it was just two adoring childlike dolphins. They swam right next to me, making me feel like I was one of them. This is where my obsession was born.

Surfing is a powerful drug that happens to be very addicting. I am obsessed with the sounds of the powerful waves crashing down, the refreshing water touching my skin and even the excitement it brings to me. I would be out in the blue crystal clear ocean smelling the breeze having the time of my life. Then all of a sudden I would look down at my watch and two hours had passed by. Usually If I do something for more than an hour I am ready to go but not in this case. The feeling of standing up on a surfboard and riding something that nature has pushed at me is irresistible; I can’t get enough of it. In fact all the constant worries I have start disappear causing me to feel relaxed, as if I were to lie down at the beach and watch the sun trickle down as time passes by. Leaving me to contemplate how can anyone feel any different.

As I progress in surfing the feeling just keeps getting better and better. The first feeling where I started to feel free just amplifies into a feeling like your in heaven where anything you can dream of can happen. Now that I have progressed, I take surfing to a new level riding the waves with concentration, balance and with determination that I will keep progressing. Surfing not only relaxes my mind, soul and body but shows me a glimpse of heaven!


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